Friday, August 19, 2011

Day 6: Wining and dining in the Andes

When you wake to a crisp, sun-bathed winter morning in the foothills of the Andes, you're in a good mood as it is. And if you've happened to have the first full night's sleep in nearly a week, you can't be blamed for being extra chirpy. Especially if you walk downstairs to the dining room and find yoghurt, pastries, coffee and toast waiting for you.


Eugenia herded us onto the bus and we were off to our first winery in Lujan de Cuyo, just outside Mendoza. And it didn't take us long to be greeted by the Andes, rising high in the distance, snow capped all the way to their top. The previous day had just been bad weather - the mountains had been there all along.

Our first winery was Alta Vista, a small-to-medium scale setup owned by a French family, who of course, kept their private stash locked away (in plain sight) in the winery cellars below. The guide said something about them flying into Mendoza a few times a year to pick up bottles. Damn. Nice life. I also want.


It was here that most of us were introduced for the first time to the Torrontes varietal. It makes for a dry white wine with sharp, almost tangy flavour, and a lot of complex things going on in the background. But it was dry. And sweet tooth that I am, it gets no love from me. Only respect. There was also olive oil for the tasting - wineries in Mendoza seem to nurture olive trees quite easily, it seems. I don't understand how olive oil could feel both light, and creamy at the same time - but it did. Well done, and stuff!

Our next stop was Lagarde, a more well-known medium sized winery that clearly knew what it was doing. I'll have you know that along with a nice buzz (Wolverines are lushes, we just are), we were also developing an appreciation for how complex, and artful the wine-making process can be. Synthetic vs. natural cork, oak vs. steel barrels, concrete vs. stainless steel tanks, the angle at which bottles are rested as the wine sediments - there's a seemingly unending depth to which you can take the art. Pretty cool.


The lunch that followed is an an experience that is forever etched into all our memories. We walk into the compound of what looks like somebody's home estate turned into little mini-restaurant dining rooms, and are greeted with a feast that is quite literally befitting of kings (or that French family that flies in just to pick up their private wine, I'm sure). There were probably eight types of cured meat, a dozen side dishes of vegetables, purees and sauces, cheeses, stew, dessert, and of course, wine. If we all felt sluggish on the last winery visit that followed, you know why.

I do believe Eugenia had saved the best for last. Carmello Patti, pictured smiling next to Bryant here, is an expert wine maker who quit the large scale wine business, and started out his own small operation in a single shed. For Carmello, it's very, very personal. And we were taken on an intimate tour of his small but capable setup. We signed his guest book - so if any of you reading this happen to visit him years from now, say hello, and try to find a big "GO BLUE" in his books.

Dinner that night was at La Lucia, a restaurant on the same drag as El Pelanquet that some of us scoped out. And it was a good choice. Almost as memorable as the rump steak I had, was the restaurant's peculiar taste in restroom art. The men's room had a drawing of a.. little person, striking a strange pose, with.. no clothes on. While that may sound only odd, and not scary, trust me on this - it was. And by the end of the night, the entire crew, girls included had taken a look. Thank you La Lucia, for a great meal, and some memorable amusement!

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